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Unsafe said:
Good ol California requires me to wait 10 days... Makes perfect sense really. It's not like I can't go out and shoot someone with the multitude of firearms I already own. Disaster averted...
I'd heard taht Kalifornistan requires waiting... I guess you have to do waht you have to do.
 

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There are several variations to the post war P38,s. The ones made in the late 50's and early 60's do not have the reinforcing stud common on the later ones to make them hold up to hotter 9mm NATO loads.

If its actually marked P38, its worth more and hence worth the 300+. If its marked P1, its worth a bit less around 250ish.

My P38 was made in December of 1961, has all original parts and still shoots like a champ. These were a great gun and I wish they still made them.

Just so you know when you go for a WW2 one. Stay in the 144 or earlier range if possible since some 1945 production ones have some metal fatigue issues in the safety mechanism. Also the Spree Werke guns are the worst so try to stay wawy from the CYQ production codes. I find that the AC code (Walther) and BYF(Mauser) codes are much nicer, with the 1944-1945 Mauser ones being nicer.

There are some SVW codes out there which was late 1945-1946 made under French occupation. These are also two tone and are known as the Grey Ghost P38s, and are just fine sicne they werent rushed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Adler said:
There are several variations to the post war P38,s. The ones made in the late 50's and early 60's do not have the reinforcing stud common on the later ones to make them hold up to hotter 9mm NATO loads.

If its actually marked P38, its worth more and hence worth the 300+. If its marked P1, its worth a bit less around 250ish.

My P38 was made in December of 1961, has all original parts and still shoots like a champ. These were a great gun and I wish they still made them.

Just so you know when you go for a WW2 one. Stay in the 144 or earlier range if possible since some 1945 production ones have some metal fatigue issues in the safety mechanism. Also the Spree Werke guns are the worst so try to stay wawy from the CYQ production codes. I find that the AC code (Walther) and BYF(Mauser) codes are much nicer, with the 1944-1945 Mauser ones being nicer.

There are some SVW codes out there which was late 1945-1946 made under French occupation. These are also two tone and are known as the Grey Ghost P38s, and are just fine sicne they werent rushed.

Hey Adler,

Yup, it was marked P-38. Thanks for all the info. It'll be quite some time before I get a wartime era p38, though :(
 

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There is a stock of Russian captured ones that have not yet hit the market, so when they do they should be in the 250-300 range since they will most likely be refinished.
 

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I know a few leaked out, but there has to be more in some cold war warehouse.

its easy as hell to identify them since all capture guns have an X stamped on them somewhere at the minimum.
 

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Unsafe said:
Just bought her today. Now I have to endure the waiting period.



YAY!!!
YAY!!! is right!

I've always wanted one of these. Unfortunately MA is truly effed up. Unless the gun was in-state Prior to late '98, it has to go through mandatory safety testing by the manufacturer. So basically, anything cool like this at great pricing is not available. Ones that were here prior to '98 rarely come on the market & when they do, they are not cheap.

I need to move to NH.
 

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SOG has them for 10 bucks more in like new condition.
 

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cdnninvestmnts.com has them

Promag has a websie you can buy them from. I have 3 of them and they all work nice.
 

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those are cool guns! i was fortunate enough to shoot one carried by an SS officer in WWII. had the swastika branded on it and its holster and everything.

although in hind sight it was probably a terrible idea. its probably lost value because of it and i have heard the natzi ones are prone to backfire due to having some parts manufactured by there captive jews.

still a sick little gun....
 
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