[Janq]

I currently have nothing but three 1911s in all three sizings (Govt., Commander and Officer).
Needless to say I _love_ the 1911.
Currently I have a SigArms 'GSR' (Govt.), SA 'Lightweight Compact Commander' which is basically their equivalent of the famous Colt 'Commander', and a Colt 'Defender' (Officer) all of which I carry though the GSR is mainly a range gun while the Defender is my primary carry weapon. Additionally I'm abig fan of the SW 1911 models including most specifically their 1911PD formerlly named the 1911SC. See my range reports toward them lastfall via OT.

As for .38 Super thats the cartridge Browning originally chambered the 1911 for and it's been the round of choice for 1911 folks US and foreign for nearly a century. it's lost favor in the US as of the last 30 yr.s or so with the increase of the 9MM but it's still a very popular chambering, and man stopper, in areas like South America and Mexico in specific as there it's illegal to posses ammo. that s used by the military (.45 ACP).
I personally am looking for an older 1911 chamebered in .38 Super.
The round shoots soft out of a1911 though is fast and in my experience very accurate with a flat trajectory out to atleast 50' if not further.

Problem is that .38 Super is a spendy ammo to buy and isn't often in stock but thats same for .45 ACP. BTW Kimber and SA have 1911s in .38 Super as well as 9MM too while S&W has a Doug Koenig designed race gun that is like sweet sweet buttah (I did a range report on it last fall in OT) though the cost is likely far more than you're looking to pay.

- Janq

 

[Janq]

I'm also looking into getting a 1911. I'm having a hard time getting information on all the makes and models...Is there a good place to get this information?.

http://forums.1911forum.com

- Janq

 

[Janq]

Adler,

Modern day 1911's all come with firing pin safeties, have been since the early 80's with development of the 'Series 80' firing pin safety system.
No one but super spendy full custom builders sell 1911s without a firing pin safety.

As for cocked & locked thats how Glocks work they are always always primed only with an internal (versus external) hammer and the safety is built into the trigger rather than on the side or rear of the slide.
Conventional SA 1911s carried cocked and locked are very safe and like every other gun requiring only that the operator to use his/her primary safety which is their brain.

- Janq

 

[Janq]

I checked Auto Ord. They are using the series 70 system on all new 1911's according to the owners manuals you can download online. They have an interia firing pin, disconnecter safety to keep from firing out of battery, thumb safety, and the ever annoying grip safety but no firing pin safety block.

If they have an inertia firing pin and a grip safety then having a third firing pin safety via series 80 block would be triplication. Even with them using a Series 70 system there is still the inertia firing pin and the grip safety which more than do the job and did for all prior to the Series 80 debut.
BTW I don't know of anyone that considers AutoOrd 1911s to be of regard, except for you as per this thread. Not saying thats a bad thing but it's not at all common. Kimber, Sig, SA, Colt, RRA, and most everyone else of note use a Series 80 firing pin block, which I personally have no problem with nor grip safeties (I actually prefer them), and the only exception toward a major supplier is with Colt on a repro govt. model they are selling thats based on the old Series 70 guns having no firing pin block or cutout but otherwise uses mostly all Series 80 parts.

- Janq

 

[Janq]

Adler,

Modern day 1911's all come with firing pin safeties, have been since the early 80's with development of the 'Series 80' firing pin safety system.
No one but super spendy full custom builders sell 1911s without a firing pin safety.

- Janq

False. No SA (Springfield) 1911 has a firing pin safety. Absolutely every SA 1911 sold is of the older '70' design whether it's a basic GI Mil-Spec or a top-of-the-line TRP or Leatham Legend.

-Chris

Correct they as of very late have switched over to a Ti firing pin in lieu of a Series 80 firing pin block, like everyone else. Although that change over is just in the last 4 or 5 years. Prior to that they were Series 80 too as is my SA Lightweight Compact Commander build date 2000, which I also CCW.
SA is a notable exception amongst the norm to which Auto Ordinance is not, recent ownership transher history inclusive.

Even still the bottom and point reamins the same, 1911s are fine and very safe for CCW.
Adler I don't know why a person would carry a 1911 with the hammer down considering that goes against the basic design intention of the gun same as carrying the average DA/SA with it's hammer back (HK USP being a notable exception). Someone doing as much is just asking for a problem and thats not the fault of the 1911 design. It's designed and intended to be carried in Condition 1, cocked & locked, and any operator who doesn't know or understand this likely shouldn't be handling a firearm at all.

Condition Two is problematic for several reasons, and is the source of more negligent discharges than the other conditions. When you rack the slide to chamber a round in the 1911, the hammer is cocked and the manual safety is off. There is no way to avoid this with the 1911 design. In order to lower the hammer, the trigger must be pulled and the hammer lowered slowly with the thumb onto the firing pin, the end of which is only a few millimeters away from the primer of a live round. Should the thumb slip, the hammer would drop and fire the gun. Not only would a round be launched in circumstances which would be at best embarrassing and possibly tragic, but also the thumb would be behind the slide as it cycled, resulting in serious injury to the hand. A second problem with this condition is that the true 1911A1 does not have a firing pin block and an impact on the hammer which is resting on the firing pin could conceivably cause the gun to go off, although actual instances of this are virtually nonexistent. Finally, in order to fire the gun, the hammer must be manually cocked, again with the thumb. In an emergency situation, this adds another opportunity for something to go wrong and slows the acquisition of the sight picture.

http://www.sightm1911.com/Care/1911_conditions.htm

- Janq

 

[Janq]

But with the 70 series if you drop your 1911(albeit very unlikely) on teh hammer and a part breaks or fails(possibility with some of the new cast parts in the firing system of some 1911s) then there is nothing stopping the hammer from from hitting the firing pin, and nothing from stopping the pin from hiting the primer of the chambered round...

You are correct but that combination of events, a 70 Series of which few are made _and_ it having MIM parts is rare.
This is a non-concern akin to being concerned about driving cars in autocross because it's manual brakes might be hard to mudulate making it difficult to control or the car as you don't have power steering ither, when effectively the number of cars sold that have either manual brakes or manual steering never mind both is so small and old schoolish that it's just not even worth talking about.

If a person were to carry a 1911 it very likely would be a modern 1911 not one thats old and pre Series 80/SA lightweight Ti firing pin.

- Janq

 

[Janq]

I'm a lot more confortable carrying a 1911 in Condition 1 than a Glock, and here's why.

A Cocked and locked 1911 requires this to fire:

1. Safety Off
2. Grip safety held down
3. 5.5 lb pressure applied to trigger

A glock requires this to fire:

1. 5.5 lb pressure applied to trigger.

That's why I'm a lot less afraid of a negligent discharge with a c&l 1911.

Me too Jamz, as relative to Glock 'Safety Action' in specific.
Even as one should never touch the trigger of any gun anyway untill ready to destoy something/someone, it still does happen if ven with clothing or equipment snags against the trigger.
The XD and SW MP addresses this more serious & real concern smartly.

- Janq

 

[Janq]

What do you guys think about the sig revolution

It's a great gun.
I own a GSR (my avatar) which has been a phenominal shooter accurate as fuck.
A much better shooter than I am.

The revolution is the GSR rebranded with an inhouse produced frame.

- Janq

 

[Janq]

No problems with it? I just saw them on the sig site and they're actully cheaper than my 226 crimson trace. I really like the sig guns 1200 rounds in 5 hrs with no cleaning and no problems impressed me, even with my limited hundgun knowledge/experience. So I wanted to stay with Sig if the guns are quality.

Mine had a minor problemtoward a part that was shipped minus red loctite.
Since having that resolved I've been nothing but hppy and that was over what I'd say is easily 4K if notmore rounds ago.
I would buy another one and just yesterday was reviewing the new design website drooling over the Revolution SAS.
No surpsrise they are cheaper than the 226 w/CT. CT grips alone run $300 retail.

I'm a big Sig fan.
I'd prior had a P226 9MM that was same, solid, and would buy anyone of the rest of the lineup having shot pretty much all of it.
Go lookup the shooting reports for them and GSR.
I assure you their accuracy is ridiculous for a non traditional essentially custom 1911 that is still combat functional (i.e. not a race gun or plaque gun).

My favorite current Sigs are the GSR, P220, P226 and the now out of production Hammerli built Trailside, all of which I've had actual range time with. Add to that the X-Five and P210 which if I could justify it I'd do either those sight unseen. I'm waiting for user reports toward the 556 rifle which looks to be a buy too as based on price and it's based on the old and well known 550/552.

- Janq

 

[Janq]

Accuracy isn't really a big issue since most handguns shot better than I can, I was more concerned with reliability.

I like the target nitron but the XO would cost me around 600$ out the door

The CT grips retail that much? that's almost half what the gun cost out the door. If I had to pay retail I wouldn't buy near as many toys lol

I've been trying to justify CT grips to use on my own guns but the cost is just ridiculous.
Don't believe me look it upyourself. Let me know if you can find anyoen willing to part witht hem for less. They are in strong demandand SW is shipping them standard on their 1911PD. It's cheaper to buy a whole gun than to get the grips by themselves.

How the hell are you going to get a GSR anything for $600?
Are you a dealer? BTW production on them is still slow so don't expect to see anythign other than the standard Revolution in the pipeline and even those are hard to find IRL in Nitron whihc everyone wants.
My GSR is nude stainless.

- Janq

 

[Janq]

No I don't care if I'm wrong, seriously, and if you happen to come across CT sold at sub $300 do drop me a line as you'ld be doing me a favor (!). I've been looking and searching but have yt to find them for less. That doesn't mean the potential isn't there though and that I might have missed something.
I've been thinking about buying a SW 1911PD Commander used, strip off the grips, then put the gun back up for sale on GunBroker at a sucker fee level. I'm tracking prices toward the prior 1911SCs now whihc is the exact same gun renamed last yearupon SW adding the CTs to the package, and increasing the price. :|

Thats great that you get such good pricing.
Traditionally I buy all my stuff used or as NIB (GSR) from private sellers and have saved myself a ridiculous amount of coing going that route. I'd buy more guns too if I had your type of connection.

My pic is pretty much how my GSR coloration looks IRL, by eye.
In fact everyone comments on the color including my FFL when it arrived. We compared it to one he'd had behind glass at the time and the color differential was significant. His GSR which was an early production serial number unit was stainles like you would expect high gloss aka in the SS slide of my Colt 'Defender' as shown bottom most in the pic. Mine is less so high gloss but more a satin silver but isn't matte. The FFL, who is a major dealer in NoVA, figured that Sig muct have treated the steel in some way with my run and those thereafter. Since getting mine he'd recieved units looking just like mine thereafter. Mine was produced in June of '04 and I bought it NIB from the previous owner at 100% condition in August.
All I can say about the GSR is I really really like it. The only real problem is that because the slide profile is completely different and thicker than any other 1911 it _will_ not fity a standard 1911 holster. I had to order a Blade-Tech OWB custom molded to the GSR shape. Other itme is that because of all the metal in that slide as well as the Pic rail the thing is heavy. It's not a Desert Eagle but it is the heaviest 1911 out there which if you want to CCW it you'll feel it. The new Revolutions don't have the rail as many people balked about it's looks, and the weight, which I personally like and prefer.

I can't close this conversation without saying one thing.
If you are looking for a target/range, home defesne or CCW gun then the GSR/Revolution is a buy as compared to the TRP and other high end semi-custom and custom offerings Wilson, et. al.
If you think by chance you might find yourself in the sandbox then if it were me in all honesty I'd go witht he SW1911PD with or without CT (they still sell it minus the laser grips under ths ame model name). SW can barely keep up with demand on them for contractor use and the Scandium frame & slide is _very_ lightweight but many times stronger than steel, doesn't rust or pit and the gun shoots soft like a normal 1911 due to it's high poundage recoil spring. I did a range review of the 1911PD at OT last fall with pics of my target s and the fullsize as well as commander are shooters! Pricing is comparable to the GSR/Revolution at MSRP. Just $0.02.

- Janq

 

[Janq]

is that an AKA viking on the top?

Nope she's an AKA 'Excalibur' low serial number one of the first year production (third shipped to NoVA) and one of the very first to have the Gen II board and tray as factory installed, not shipped back to AKA for updating as many others had to do. I went with the optional double trigger and a half milled body in the razy tough and matte color stock anodization. I wish I could get my firearms annod via the same method.
IMHO, an absoultely perfect _and_ extremely reliable/durable marker system.
It's been my primary tournament marker for what four years now or how ever long it's been out. I run it double reg'd with a Max-Flo.

- Janq

 

[Janq]

... Interesting you run it double reg'd though, especially since the Sidewinder is one of the best regs out there. I would assume double regging may cause some recharge problems...

Agreed the Sidewinder is excellent on it's own.
Double regging though doesn't starve air as long as it's setup properly.
The Max-Flo itself is a Sidewinder equivalent with a +/- 1 capability same as the Sidewinder. What I did is set the Max-Flo to run 1.5 air volume/pressure of what I actually require which is rougly 400 psi.
From there the Max-Flo feeds the Sidewinder which itself I use to fine tune actual output pressure. Additionally I have the LPR set with it's own pressure setting via an AKALMP airsmiths kit to run at just about 110 psi low enough to bounce rather than chop but high enoug to support the ram setting I have in software at an actual non-ramped rate of 19BPS tournament setting.
Doing all of this has resulted in a stable platform that never starves yet is still very air efficient. I can run a whole day of rec-ball on one tank full and under tournament conditions or practice only need to top off once if at all and still clear 295 fps +/- 1 with consistency shot to shot even to event. Normally I rarely ever have to adjust the Sidewinder as it almost always chronys at where I have it set at 295 constant.
I could have just run air straight into the Sidewinder but I've found that double regging allows for a broad range of setup options as depending on my intended use. For Scenario games I'd run the Max-Flo a 2 times are supply required but then run the LPR down super low to like 75psi. Solow the bolt makes no sound when cycling and I'd set the solenoid to release air 20% slower resulting in nearly no sound signature. I could be right next to a person andthey would never know I'm shooting unless they watched my trigger finger move. This makes for great use in the woods at close distances and as of current sniping the squirrels out of my trees and they nor my neoighbors never hear a tell tale report.

I love this marker.

- Janq

 

[Janq]

http://www.securityandsafetysupply.com/products-night-vision/laser-grips.html

http://www.realgoldsports.com/crimson_trace_laser_grips.htm

Here's a couple places to try. If that doesn't work for you. I'll see what prices I can come up with next weekend when I stop at the shop.

I don't mind the weight, I prefer heavier steady holding guns.

I'll check out the SW, I doubt I'll play in any sandboxes sandbox I usually end up in more hot and humid terrain

Good find, the lowest on sale I've seen was $279 but they were out of stock for 1911.
Even at $239.99 though thats still too expensive atleast IMO.
A set of normal grips runs $60 or less custom leaving $179 toward the laser. Thats a lot of profit. I'm going to hold out untill I can find a pair even if used at <$200 or finagle a way forthe net result in acquisiion to cost me that much or less if possible.
Paying $179 for what is effectively a $20 laser pointer and a remote on/ff switch is nuts. CT's MSRP rate is too high, from which street prices are generally discounted off of, although if I were them I'd do the same. More than enough people are willing to pay as much so whay the hell not.

If I had Uncle Sam buying them for me then I wouldn't think twice on the matter. $239.99 is nearly half of my planned shotgun purchase budget, and a shottie is higher on my priority list.

- Janq

 

[Janq]

What type shoty are you looking at...

Fabrique National Herstal 'Self-Loading' Police model shotgun 18" 12ga.

http://www.fnhusa.com/contents/sg_selfloading.htm

MSRP is roughly $850 and I've been watching GunBroker since the fall for a deal NIB but had to hold off on doing anything untill 4 weeks ago as my MA LTC cleared.

- Janq

 

[Janq]

I highly suggest you try 1 out before you by 1 It's a very good gun I personally don't like the gas system and interchangeable pistons for light and heavy loads. It shoots very nice as long as you match load to piston, But if you switch watch out. Light load in heavy piston dorsn't always have enough power to eject properly and if put a high velocity 3" slug in on the light piston you can go full auto, Personally I like that but it can catch you by suprise if your not rready for it lol I think it's more of a specialized gun than a do it all universal type shotgun. It does I task at a time very very well

Yep I was aware of those items pistons et. al.
It's unlikely that I would have a need to switch loads in a given session nor constant enough for it to be a problem.
I've seen them going at GunBroker as NIB and lightly used in the mid $600's. My second choice is a Remy 870 pump.

- Janq

 

[Janq]

As long as you know all that you won't be disappointed with it. I just wanted to give you a heads up. With the right load for piston it is a very very good gun. It's a very soft shooter for it's size and that combined with it's quick lock time and fast cyclic rate, with slugs you can double tap it just like a handgun.

Cool...thats exactly what I usnderstand from other sources as well as owners.

- Janq