I called it synthetic above but saw this image in my album and noticed it says ALL NATURAL on the bottle, oops.
I'm not sure if I've posted this before but I have been involved in guns and the shooting sports since I received my first .22 at age 11 in 1963, 47 years ago. 38 of those years were spent in the rust belt, in and around Chicago, Illinois. The remainder have been in Arizona.
All I have ever used to lubricate my firearms is Mobil 1 Motor Oil, ATF, (Automatic Transmission Fluid), and for very high pressure friction points like bolt lugs on bolt action rifles and hinge pins on O/U shotguns I will use a small amount of STP. I have never had a a gun rust or fail because of a lubrication issue in over 45 years.
Gun oils and greases are overpriced "snake oils" in fancy packaging, nothing more. Know what a Castrol Rep told me your getting when you spend $8.00 for a bottle of "Castrol / Hoppes Synthetic Gun Oil"? Castrol Syntec Motor Oil with an emulsifier added to it. You can buy it all day for around $4.50 @ quart, or pay $8.00 for 4 ounces of it in a fancy brushed Aluminum pump bottle. Same with a lot of these "Gun Greases".
Go into any auto parts store and you can buy a large tube of Moly Grease that will last the average shooter a lifetime for a couple of bucks. It's as good, or better than these miracle gun greases they sell for over $10.00 for a 1/4 ounce! An even better product is the Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease. It comes in a 1 pound tub for around $6.00. If you like the fancy hypo type applicator, you can get one at Walgreens, or most any other drug store for around .25 to .50 cents, and it's refillable too boot.
Mobil 1 can be tailored to your climate just as you would if you used it in your car. If you shoot or hunt in very frigid climate it comes in a 0W-20 grade that won't stiffen up in cold weather. Here in Arizona we don't get much cold weather, but in the Summer it can get blistering hot so I use the 10W-40 or the 20W-50 grade. It has a nice viscosity that won't run off metal and dry up in a few days like some of these water thin gun oils like "Rem-Oil" will. Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube has an even higher viscosity that works well on guns that tend to be run at higher temperatures like AR-15's and AK-47's. It comes in a 75W-140 Grade. ATF is a very clean non gumming lubricant that works well for lubricating semi autos and fast moving parts like slides and even trigger mechanisms. I'm not a believer of these so called "dry lubes". 47 years of shooting has taught me one very simple fact. If I can see oil on my firearms, I know I won't be seeing any rust.
All 3 of these products can be purchased at any auto parts store for around $20.00, and will last the average shooter for years, if not a lifetime. I won't overpay for these gun lubes that do nothing better except make you poorer. Bill T.
Gunatic Loyalist (Bow down)
Sort of related to my original post, but not directly on point is this question:
Is there any truth to the fact that with my all stainless steel, uncoated guns I shoudl use a heavier lube than on my coated finishes (i.e. Armor Tuff, Melonite, blue, etc.)? Should my all stainless guns get grease on the slide/frame rails or is CLP, Hoppes, Slide Glide Lite, etc acceptable?
Personally I'm a little apprehensive about using grease on any of my hand guns as they all have a pretty damn tight slide to frame fit.
Last edited by mwink822; 03-14-2011 at 01:55 PM.
Take this for what it is worth, but I heavily lubricate all of my Stainless Steel guns far more than my carbon steel weapons. Stainless is far more "gummier", and therefore requires more lubrication. I've seen several weapons in Stainless Steel that were destroyed with too little lubrication. I've never seen one that was wrecked by too much. Bill T.
Gunatic Loyalist (Bow down)
I amply lube my stainless guns, just curious as to whether I should opt for a grease as opposed to CLP or Hoppes
Originally Posted by billt
If your oil doesn't dry out or migrate away from where it's needed, it is probably fine. I tend to use grease on bolt lugs and pistol slides unless it's really bitter cold. Just plain old aluminum complex marine bearing grease from the auto parts store, plus a dash of moly mixed in for good measure.
Some mechanisms seem to prefer something heavy that will stay put. This writeup by Grant Cunningham cuts thru a lot of the BS: http://grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html
tl;dr, regular oils and greases work fine. There is no magic. Turns out Militec-1 contains chlorinated esters (it was originally marketed as an extreme pressure additive). I'm happy to use synthetic motor oils, ATF, STP, grease, and "safe" EP ingredients, i.e. careful with the chlorinated stuff and no graphite anywhere near aluminum.
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